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The Solid Oak Man/Km Hybrid Ltd 2015 - ALL rights reserved

Currently, we are operating 2 different mounting systems; both are invisible, easy to set up and up for the job.

 

Depending on the item you order, we would determine best option. Generally speaking – where the widths is greater than the thickness we would supply concealed screws (with expandable wall ring) and vice versa, if the thickness is greater than the width we would use strait hooks and a key hole like setting.

Please contact us if you have plastered board/hollow walls as we might have to use/suggest another option.

 

Concealed brackets:

 

 

FLOATING SHELF INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

 

 

14mm STEEL CONCEALED SUPPORTS

 

A pair of 14mm concealed shelf support will carry around 20-25kg including the shelf itself.

 

Shelves with 14mm concealed shelf supports will be supplied pre -drilled and with the correct amount of supports required to hold the shelf.

 

We can add or remove as many supports to our floating shelf as you need, but remember the more supports you add the trickier the installation becomes.

 

PLEASE ALWAYS CHECK FOR WATER/GAS PIPES AND ELECTRIC CABLES BEFORE DRILLING INTO WALLS!!

 

The oak beam/shelf should be mounted onto a solid brick or concrete block work wall using the 14mm concealed shelf supports provided.

 

 Dot & Dab/ Stud/Timber plasterboard walls – generally are fine for standard 14mm fixings but please let us know before ordering as we might have to use/suggest different mounting system.

 

These kind of walls are acceptable as long as the mounting is onto the timber studs or the plastic plug hit solid structure and NOT the plasterboard itself, the oak beams are too heavy for plasterboard fixings. For this method you must provide the drilling positions to suit your timber stud wall so we can drill in the correct places for you, Email us after you order/checkout, or add comments into the box.

 

 

 

Tools needed for the job:

 

· Masonry/SDS hammer Drill

· 14mm masonry drill bit

· Spirit level & Pencil

·Tape Measure

·Hammer

·Masking tape

·Adjustable spanner/pipe grips

 

Please contact us if you have plastered board/hollow walls as we might have to use/suggest another option.

 

Plastic plug with metal (expandable ring) goes into the wall. Longer, straight section goes into the wood

 

MOUNTING THE SHELF

 

< > Using the masking tape, place on the wall where you want your new shelf to hang allowing a little extra. 

 

< > Using the spirit level and pencil, mark a level line across the masking tape ensuring the line is longer than you need.Using the tape measure, measure the centre points of the holes on the back of the shelf. Now transfer these measurements onto your marked line on the wall.Using the hammer drill and 14mm masonry drill bit, drill a hole at 75 - 80mm deep for each hole needed, ensuring that the drill is level and square when drilling.

 

 < >The plastic wall plug with metal ring at the end, needs to be pushed in until the washer, please don’t disassembly the fixing before doing it, as the metal ring might “get lost in the wall”. Once you have all the fixings in the wall, turn the long (projecting) bolt clockwise until firmly secured to the wall (the metal ring is expanding within the plug in the wall holding nice and tightly the fixing) you might use spanner to for this.

 

  < > Using the spirit level, now place this across your support brackets checking for level, if levelled, you’re ready to add the shelf. If not using the adjustable spanner, rotate one or both of the support brackets until the spirit level bubble is in the lines and level. You’re now ready to install the shelf.

Keyhole fixings (straight hooks) for beam/mantels,

 

This option would be mainly used for beam/lintels but also to secure fire place surrounds from falling forwards.

 

The principals for fixing them are similar as per the concealed brackets, only difference is that the plastic plug might be smaller than 14mm, typically it is 12mm but might vary so please check engraved number before drilling any holes.

 

As above, please drill holes in line with the back of the mantel fixings, secure the hooks to the wall and hang the mantel just as mirror or a picture frame.

It is possible to use these hooks on a plastered board walls, but you might have to use suitable plugs, sourced individually to suit your needs.

Securing fireplace surround.

Depending on surround purchased, you'll receive either 3 or 4 pieces of oak.

The idea is to have the mantel attached to the uprights, at a required aperture (unless you'll have the cross infill which will be cut to size)

Then place the straight hooks to mirror the surrounds keyhole like fixings from the back and simply "hang" the whole structure onto them - the hooks are meant to hold the surround from falling forward and not to take the weigh, this is the job for uprights. You might also like to apply some silicon or a bounding adhesives to further secure the uprights.

Fixing shelf/mantels with corbels.

The mantels will come separately from corbels, and we do a grove to the back of the mantel to allow you to move the corbels in/out to set them up at a required aperture. One you have set the corbels and fixed them to the mantel using metal plate/screws provided you are ready to place them on the wall - depending on the shelf size we will either set concealed straight bolts or hooks.